Iain R Webb’s Postcards from the Edge of the Catwalk is a personal photographic portfolio spanning three decades that documents the glittering brouhaha surrounding the ready-to-wear and haute couture fashion collections in New York, London, Milan and Paris. The photographs, snapped by the award-winning fashion journalist from the insider vantage point of his front row seat and invite-only parties, capture a world of show-stopping creativity and inspirational individual style.

Rayne is the name synonymous with the best in British 20th-century shoe design. Re-launched as a British-owned company in 2013, the remarkable design achievements of the company in the 20th-century are illustrated in this sumptuous book. The business began in the late 19th-century as a theatrical costumier and soon added shoes to its products, with a factory in Bermondsey near the current Fashion & Textile Museum. Early clients included the Ballet Russes and Nijinsky. By the 1920s, members of the British Royal family and aristocracy were clients and a shop was opened on Bond Street with a new factory based at King’s Cross. By 1950, the company had three royal warrants, had supplied shoes for the wedding of Princess Elizabeth (now Queen Elizabeth II) in 1947, and had a strong American presence with Delman Shoes at Bergdorf Goodman, NYC, amongst other locations. Sir Edward Rayne became a celebrity in his own right and collaborated with many famous designers such as Roger Vivier, Bruce Oldfield, Jean Muir, and the “Fashion Knight” Sir Norman Hartnell, and Hardy Amies. In the 1970s, Bill Gibb designed collections for Rayne, and Rayne supplied the shoes for several leading French couturiers houses such as Lanvin and Nina Ricci. In the 1980s Bruce Oldfield designed collections for them. Oliver Messel re-designed the famous Bond Street Store, which attracted stars of stage and screen, such as Elizabeth Taylor, as well as society ladies. Beautifully illustrated, this book offers a complete history of this remarkable brand.

Weimin He’s 324 ink drawings, pen sketches and woodblock prints comprise an intimate record of the progress of construction in the newly designed Ashmolean Museum that opened late last year. An unusual approach to documentation in the age of digital photography, the catalogue provides a delightful experience for readers who will never set foot in the Ashmolean.

Weimin has drawn workers lifting roof beams, welding metal rods and pouring cement into the mixer. He gives us behind-the-scenes portraits of museum personnel, making each individual come alive, for example, an objects conservator at her work and a researcher in the prints room at his. An artist-in-residence at the museum and an art scholar, Weimin employed Chinese drawing and woodblock printmaking methods. His portraits were drawn on pi, xuan papers or album leaves, with Chinese brushes and inks that have been used for over a millennium. Seven of the prints and the catalogue were presented to Queen Elizabeth for the museum’s opening.

From the Belle Époque to the 1960s, jewelry from the Parisian firm Lacloche Frères adorned over four generations of crowned heads, including Queen Victoria of Spain, the Duchess of Westminster, the kings of Greece and Siam, and Grace Kelly. Founded in Paris in 1901 by three brothers, Lacloche Frères sold jewelry created by the best Parisian workshops, including Strauss Allard Meyer, Verger, Helluin-Matlinger, and Langlois, and was renowned for its elegant designs and exquisite workmanship. Their tiaras, bracelets, pins, clocks, and ladies’ accessories (vanities, cigarette cases) embodied the spirit of Art Nouveau and Art Deco, and are some of their best-known pieces. This is the first monograph to trace the dazzling history of the Lacloche family business, and includes an extraordinary album of gouaches that recreates the 21 clocks and 63 pieces of jewelry from their award-winning booth at the 1925 Paris Exhibition des Arts Décoratifs.

Text in English and French.

Sympathy for the Devil refers to the first track on the Rolling Stones album Beggars Banquet. Each of the selected art works in this book about contemporary artists are linked in one way or another to prominent ideas in the song: the fascinating beauty of evil, the attraction of moral or psychological hell, death and danger as a celebration of life, extreme and transgressive behavior and even a pronounced tendency towards sexuality. Curators Walter Vanhaerents and Pierre-Olivier Rollin have chosen the title Sympathy for the Devil for the second group exhibition in the Vanhaerents Art Collection, a unique collection of contemporary art based in Brussels. Includes the work of the following artists: Hamra Abbas; Mark Handforth; Mario Merz; David Adamo; He Sen; Jean-Luc Moerman; Christian Boltanski; He Wenjue; Yasumasa Morimura; James Lee Byars; Jenny Holzer; Farhad Moshiri; Wim Delvoye; Matthew Day Jackson; Bruce Nauman; Nick Ervinck; Barbara Kruger; Ugo Rondinone; Urs Fischer; Gabriel Kuri; Christoph Schmidberger; Barnaby Furnas; Terence Koh; Sudarshan Shetty; Anna Gaskell; Claude Lévêque; Yinka Shonibare; Kendell Geers; Nathan Mabry; Johan Tahon; Anthony Gormley; Steve Mc Queen; Wang Du.

The Darnley jewel, a masterpiece of the goldsmith’s art on display at Edinburgh’s Holyrood Palace, has been deemed a love token, but has also been labelled an emblem of political ambition. Taking the shape of a heart, the jewel was produced at a moment (1565-75) when such objects worn by courtiers were a primary means of asserting status and proclaiming allegiances. With a deep medieval history – originally the fleshly power center of the human body, the seat of the soul, and place of memory and emotion – the heart has many aspects to offer. This book shows how the understanding of the heart changed during the Middle Ages, from spiritual locus of the body, to source of devotion to country, and finally, to the font of love and sentimentality.

Pioneering Edinburgh photographers David Octavius Hill (1802-1870) and Robert Adamson (1821-1848) together formed one of the most famous partnerships in the history of photography.

Producing highly skilled photographs just four years after the new medium was announced to the world in 1839, their images of people, buildings and scenes in and around Edinburgh offer a fascinating glimpse into 1840s Scotland. Their much-loved prints of the Newhaven fisherfolk are among the first images of social documentary photography.

In the space of four and a half years Hill and Adamson produced several thousand prints encompassing landscapes, architectural views, tableaux vivants from Scottish literature and an impressive suite of portraits featuring key members of Edinburgh society.

Anne M. Lyden, International Photography Curator at the National Galleries of Scotland, discusses the dynamic dispute that brought these two men together and reveals their perfect chemistry as the first professional partnership in Scottish photography.

Illustrated with around 100 masterpieces from the Galleries’ unique, vast collection of the duo’s ground-breaking work.

The Scottish National Portrait Gallery, part of the National Galleries of Scotland, provides a unique visual history of Scotland, told through portraits of the figures who shaped it: royals and rebels, poets and philosophers, heroes and villains. The Gallery is home to Scotland’s collection of portrait miniatures which date from the mid-sixteenth century to the present day.
This book illustrates a selection of works by key miniaturists and features portraits of many important Scottish historical figures such as James Hepburn 4th Earl of Bothwell, the third husband of Mary, Queen of Scots, James VI and I and Robert Burns who was depicted in the last year of his life. A complete list of all the works in the collection is also included.

Gandhi’s Vision: Freedom and Beyond chronicles the principal events leading to India’s independence under Gandhi’s leadership and his vision of a free India. The book commemorates 71 years of Indian independence and is replete with portraits of the Mahatma in action – invoking the spirit of patriotism, uniting people from all religions, regions and social groups across the country: Hindus, Muslims and Parsis, peasants and landlords, workers and capitalists, the intelligentsia and the illiterates, men and women, the young and the old. Among those stalwarts who led the freedom movement, Mohandas Karamchand Gandhi shines not only for the novel means of non-violence, but also for simultaneously wanting to root out social evils like communal hatred, untouchability and gender disparity. With several such issues espoused by him continuing to dominate the social space, his teachings remain relevant even today.

Giovanni Morelli changed the way we look at art. Before Morelli (1816-1891), the attribution of a painting to a particular artist or school was often based on overall impression, hearsay, even gut feeling. But Morelli, having trained as a medical doctor to look closely at anatomical detail, applied scientific rigor to understanding the works of masters such as Titian, Leonardo, and Raphael, and of other Renaissance and Baroque painters. By closely scrutinising, analysing and comparing details overlooked by most other collectors, critics, and curators, his radical ‘Morellian method’ became the basis of modern art connoisseurship. A proud Italian of Swiss Protestant heritage, Morelli was also a staunch patriot. He risked his life in the Italian Wars of Independence, and was elected four times to the parliament of the newly unified nation. In 1873 he was nominated senator for life. As a statesman he fought for his homeland’s cultural patrimony: at a time when many of Italy’s great art collections were being snapped up by foreign collectors and museums, he introduced some of the world’s first legislation to prevent their loss to the nation. The Life of Giovanni Morelli in Risorgimento Italy is the first full biography of this important figure, including his romantic friendships with remarkable women such as Clementina Frizzoni, Laura Acton Minghetti (wife of the Italian prime minister), and Princess Victoria (daughter of Queen Victoria and subsequently empress of Germany). At his death he bequeathed his art collection to the Accademia Carrara in Bergamo, the birthplace of his mother, a city he loved.

Norman Hartnell (1901-1979) was a uniquely British genius. For nearly sixty years he was a major personality in the world of fashion. By the mid 1930s, Hartnell’s meteoric rise to fame resulted in London becoming a centre of style that closely rivalled Paris. Known for glamorous evening clothes, Hartnell augmented his early design successes by creating a series of stunning wedding dresses for his younger society clientele. His bridal extravaganzas culminated in the romantic 1947 wedding of Princess Elizabeth to Prince Philip. While Hartnell clients included members of the English upper class as well as the best-known stage and film actresses of the time, it was his royal patronage that assured him a place in history. The famous “White Wardrobe” created for Queen Elizabeth (and photographed by Cecil Beaton) in the late 1930s changed her image forever; the extraordinary coronation robes designed for Elizabeth II in 1953; and the sublimely simple wedding dress he made for Princess Margaret when she was married to Lord Snowdon in 1960 remain iconic to this day. Decades of achievement were rewarded with a Knighthood in 1977. Sir Norman Hartnell became the first of two fashion designers to be so honoured. Hartnell continued to create both daywear and evening clothes for a well-heeled sophisticated clientele until his death in 1979. In Be Dazzled!: Norman Hartnell, Sixty Years of Glamour and Fashion, royal enthusiasts and fashion connoisseurs will be able to examine in greater detail his drawings, vintage photographs, fabric samples and personal scrapbooks that have never been published before.

Curtain Up!: Thirty Years of Spectacular Showhouse Rooms is a glossy compendium of interior designer Barbara Ostrom’s extraordinary rooms that she has created in the last 30 years for the most prestigious showhouses in New York City, New Jersey, and the Hamptons. With a preface by Mario Buatta, the book highlights some of Barbara’s most wildly imaginative and over-the-top rooms. It also displays her process from start to finish where she often has to begin with a gutted, crumbling room. The results are whimsical and colorful, with details ranging from a crystal chandelier adorned with an umbrella, ten foot high canopy beds, antique birdcages, Fu dogs, a 15th century knight in armor, Grecian gas lights, a hand-woven hammock from Jamaica, to ceilings painted with monkeys, parrots, squirrels, and butterflies. Barbara Ostrom’s rooms are exuberant and uplifting – no wonder she’s been dubbed ‘Queen of the Showhouse.’

Introducing Laura Bohn, Ways of Seeing, the first monograph examining the career of this New York designer, Laura Bohn. Bohn uses her signature elements, unusual materials, and a distinctive color palette to create interiors that are both livable and softly modern. She will often set unexpected hues and shapes together to give her rooms a depth and richness, which is not easily replicated. Bohn is the founder and principal of Laura Bohn Design Associates, a New York-based international interior design firm. She is also the co-founder of The Designers Collaborative, a support group for top designers, as well as being a member of ASID and Decorators’ Club. She serves as a visiting critic at local design schools, and has taught at the Fashion Institute of Technology, Parsons School of Design, and the Pratt Institute. Bohn’s ability to forecast current design trends and interpret client’s needs has made Laura Bohn a New York design authority.

“Everyone involved in this publication has done the collection proud…. I can only describe A Royal Treasure as a dream of a book.” — Jonathan Hope, Hali

On each of his three visits to Indonesia, the Thai Monarch King Chulalongkorn returned home to Siam with pieces of handmade Batik. Preserved by the bureau of the Royal household at the Grand Palace since 1910, the year the king passed away, the collection totals over 300 pieces and today provides key documentation of the Batik made in West and Central Java during the second half of the 19th-century, with many rare and beautiful pieces from famous ateliers of the day this exquisite collection was presented to the public for the first time at the Queen Sirikit Museum of Textiles in Bangkok in October 2018. Published to coincide with the exhibition, A Royal Treasure contains a detailed catalog of the collection and is enhanced by rare archival photographs of the King’s travels, the original signature notes indicating the name of the pattern and who was allowed to wear it, and the palace inventory tags. Lavishly produced, and written and researched by leading experts in the field, this book is an important contribution to the field of Indonesian textiles and a visual feast for textile lovers worldwide.

The First World War is tremendously significant to India’s history. Largely considered a European war, it actually involved the participation of more than a hundred countries, allowing for it to be also known as, The Great War. In 1914 it was thought by Indian political leaders that offering support to the British would further the cause of India’s independence. Accordingly, Indian soldiers were sent to fight alongside the British in Mesopotamia (modern-day Iraq), Egypt, Palestine, France, Aden, Belgium, East Africa, Gallipoli and Salonika. About twenty-five princely states contributed over 26,000 combatants. The Dalai Lama offered his support through Tibetan troops, and Gurkhas were deployed from Nepal as well. They accompanied Britain’s soldiers in the artillery, cavalry, infantry, engineers, signals service, sappers, and miners, arms of the army. Indian services to Britain extended to the Royal Navy as well as the Queen Alexandra’s Imperial Military Nursing Service. Indian troops who fought in Europe, had stepped outside their homeland, across the kala pani, for the first time. The sophistication of the artillery used abroad, required remarkable adaptation on the part of the soldiers. The drastically different landscape and colder weather was a shock as well. Socially too, they felt displaced among the Europeans, with their vastly different cultures and mannerisms. This was a very new scenario for Indian men; to fight side-by-side the people who were their colonisers back home. Though the Indian combatants received care matching their British counterparts, a close eye was kept on their outings, making them feel trapped. The entire experience of fighting overseas was culturally alienating for many Indians, as mentioned in their letters home, which were also often subject to military censorship. Though mentally ill-equipped to deal with an emotional and physical relocation as vast as this, Indian soldiers fought valiantly. Inder Singh, in a letter back home from the Somme in September 1916, wrote, ‘It is quite impossible that I should return alive. [But] don’t be grieved at my death, because I shall die arms in hand, wearing the warrior’s clothes. This is the most happy death that anyone can die’. By the end of the war, about 60,000 troops from India had fought for Britain. Eleven Victoria Crosses were awarded and over 13,000 gallantry medals were earned. Despite India backing its efforts during the Great War, Britain’s denial to grant India independence, created conflict and unrest among Indians, leading to the beginning of the uprising for independence. The author, Captain Amarinder Singh is himself a product of the Indian army. He served as ADC to the GOC-in-C, Western Command, during the 1965 war with Pakistan. A published military historian, he painstakingly retraces the footsteps of the Indian battalions during the First World War, using official battle details, war diaries, and maps.

David Adjaye’s second monograph with a+u displays the global expansion of his practice. a+u 18:02 features international projects such as the Latvian Museum of Contemporary Art, Aishti Foundation, and Moscow School of Management. Adjaye’s influences range from contemporary art, music and science to African art forms and city life. His ingenious use of materials and sculptural ability have established him as an architect with an artist s sensibility and vision. Following a competition in 2009, he was chosen to design the National Museum of African American History and Culture. In addition to these large scale works, private residences from around the world are also included in this issue. After teaching internationally and receiving numerous awards, Adjaye was knighted by Her Majesty the Queen for services to architecture, following the award of his OBE in 2007. Text in English and Japanese.

This book presents sixteen essays exploring the work of two of 17th-century Amsterdam’s most ambitious painters, Govert Flinck and Ferdinand Bol. Museum curators, academic art historians, and conservation scientists from six different countries come together to investigate form, content, and context from a variety of perspectives. Eric Jan Slujter examines how changing patterns of patronage contributed to both artists’ stylistic evolution. Hilbert Lootsma traces the rise and fall of their critical fortunes from their own time until today. Ann Jensen Adams situates their work in the shifting market for portraiture. Jasper Hillegers explores the origins of Flinck’s career in the Leeuwarden studio of Lambert Jacobsz. Other authors present contextual and technical analyzes of individual paintings. Portrait identities are revealed, painterly tricks uncovered, and both artists are shown to be influential teachers and members of an intellectual community in which art and theater were closely linked. Many of these essays originated at an international conference held in preparation for the exhibition, Govert Flinck and Ferdinand Bol. Together, they shed new light on the methods and motivations of two artists who began as Rembrandt’s acolytes but soon became his rivals.

Portrait Miniatures from the Merchistion Collection is the fifth in a series of titles which examines the portrait miniature. This collection, which has never been on public display, was assembled on the London art market during the 1970s and 1980s. Scottish miniaturists from the late eighteenth and early nineteenth centuries are particularly well represented with fine works by Scouler, Bogle, and Skirving and Sir William Charles Ross. Of outstanding interest is Nicholas Hilliard’s matching pair of tiny lockets of Queen Elizabeth and her admirer Robert Dudley, Earl of Leicester. Stephen Lloyd’s essay discusses the formation of the collection and the impact of the invention of photography on the art of miniature painting. It also explores the social history of the miniature. Twenty of the key works are illustrated in color, with extended captions, and a complete list of the collection is also included.

Following the success of Letters from St. Petersburg, which recounts the early years of Prince Chakrabongse’s life through his letters to his father, King Chulalongkorn, the diaries covering the last four years of his life are full of sadness and tumult. The Prince records all the facets of his daily life: his work as Commander-in-Chief of the army and his push to bring Siam into World War I, the conflicts within the royal family, the breakup of his marriage and the death of his beloved mother, Queen Saowabha. These diaries provide an invaluable first-hand insight into Siamese politics and governance at a turbulent time, as well as poignant glimpses of his personal life and divorce from his Russian wife, Katya.